The second day of our whistle stop tour of part of Texas saw us wondering what to do for breakfast. The Historic Hotel Menger was very nice but so were its breakfast prices so instead we ventured out into the early morning to seek sights and breakfast before the hordes took to the streets. The previous evening we had walked part of the River Walk which is filled with bars and cafes, so this morning we decided to see some of the sights and maybe find some food on the way. I should point out that the River Walk in San Antonio is actually below street level making it like Venice underground in some ways. It is however very pretty and, given the temperature, very sensible. We wandered above ground to start with and headed for the Cathedral
taking in the court house on the way which looked more cathedral like than the Cathedral (a case of the law being held in higher regard, perhaps?). After this we descended to river level and wandered along enjoying the lack of crowds before choosing to breakfast at a river front cafe (actually a hotel but we didn't know that). The breakfast was fantastic but the constant stream of waiters asking if everything was ok got on my nerves just a bit.
Suffice to say it cost just as much as if we'd eaten at the Historic Hotel Menger but the setting was nicer. We returned back to the surface just in time for the Alamo to open (9am btw, we got up early) and so had a wander round that as well. Maybe it was fatigue, maybe it was jet lag, but we really didn't do it justice and the twenty million buses of school kids showing up and invading the church and grounds saw us beating a hasty retreat to start our drive. This is the tree that is growing in the courtyard which is stunning in itself.
We checked out and set off out of town and on to the Freeway where we engaged in our traditional pastime of going the wrong way. I was the navigator so I must accept responsibility (we still had no map) but Inga chose to ignore my "get off now and turn around" until I had shouted at her (which made her laugh, I think she may have been doing it on purpose as she knows it winds me up!). Shouting over we headed out on the 90. This road was to be our companion for quite a few miles - about 350 of them.
The drive to Del Rio (a stone's throw from ol' Mexico) was about 150 miles and the sun was shining, the sky was blue, the clouds were white and fluffy and the land was flat and dull. The road was also straight so once the cruise control was set you had literally nothing to do but stare at the long straight road and try not to fall asleep. After Del Rio it got a little more interesting as there was a HUGE lake with a cool railway bridge.
This lake is enormous and man made. It is so strange to be in the desert (the green has given way to dust and brown by now) and come across a big building selling boats and marine equipment. We drove a bit further and had our first encounter with border control. Huh? We're IN the USA and we get stopped and asked for identification - obviously because we look like illegal immigrants although they'll no doubt claim that we had suspicious accents! The guard didn't know what to make of my lovely paper license so we had to pull over and dig out our passports instead. Having not been shot, tortured and barely smiled at we drove on. And on, and on, and on, through scrubby land at a steady 75mph on snooze control. 200 miles of boredom. We couldn't find any tourist guides to Texas and now I think I know why - most of it is dull, dull, dull! And either run down or derelict. So far, with the exception of San Antonio and the occasional bit of cool bridge building, Texas was not inspiring me to revisit. We hit Alpine (pop 5000 including a University - who would choose to go to Uni in a town where there is practically nothing?) and called Dan at Wandervogel to say we were an hour away. The drive down from Alpine to Terlingua
cheered us up - scenery and a road with bends in it! Mesa's started to appear (It's a flat topped mountain and has something to do with bedrock - ask a geologist or that nice Mr Google - all I know is that they look both cool and weird) and we were fast approaching (or as fast as you're allowed to drive) our destination. We found the right side road and drove along until we found the right dirt track - rock and dirt track would be more accurate - and then we finally reached Dan's Adobe house (Adobe is a traditional mud brick construction btw) to be greeted by Dan, Derek, Otto and Sadie. Better introductions and a tour of the place tomorrow. Right now, cold beer and new friends are calling. Adios Amigos (yep, the border is just round the corner too!)
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