Thursday 21 May 2009

Day 3 - Wandervogel, dramatic scenery and more


One of the things I didn't tell you about from day 2 was that our accommodation at Dan's place was actually in a Kohte tent that we had bought over to demonstrate. This was pitched next to the house in an open-ish area. The biggest problem with this open-ish area was the ish bit, which consisted of rocks, stones and rocks - not the most comfortable base for a bed but hey, we're hardened campers, we could cope. The tent was pegged out with some effort and a cross constructed from bits of wood from the wood pile (one bit was an old pick axe handle) and then we found we had no rope for the cap. One bit of improvisation later saw the Jurte cap firmly attached to create a not-so-perfect Kohte. The picture you see is of the tent covered in rain. Yep, you read that right. We're in the desert and it rained!!! Suffice to say, it didn't leak despite the strong wind whipping across the desert hills.

So, our first day with the Wandervogel crew (Dan and Derek) started slowly talking about tents and plans and then progressed to the lack of shower (and toilet, but more on that later). A quick discussion - ok, I lied, no discussion in Texas is ever quick - later and we all set off for a shower at the local motel and a trip to have brunch (although lunch would be more accurate) at the local food hot spot - Kathy's Kosmic Kowgirl Kafe. This place is not only cool (see pic) but serves absolutely fantastic food. The entire place is pink and Kathy wears pink including a pink cowgirl hat (how she gets away with that in Texas is a question best left unanswered). It is very popular and we ate and drank well before heading off to see Big Bend National Park. The park, if you look at a map of Texas, is on the left hand side right up against the Mexico border. In fact, the Rio Grande river is the border so you get to stand on the banks and look at another country - if you're really lucky you get to see swarms of illegal immigrants making their way across to the promised land. Honest, you get warned about them in the official brochure!

I'm not entirely sure that the pictures I've taken can do the scenery justice. If I remember I will post a link to an online gallery where you can see more shots and make up your own mind. This is Derek and Inga looking out from the top of some mountains towards the Rio Grande. The views are huge, and I mean huge - awe inspiring 360 degree views of mountains and an enormous sky. We drove down to the Rio Grande and looked at a canyon that joins it which you can raft down (8 miles of white water adrenaline filled, you might die, fun). We took a short cut back which we're not going to tell the rental company about but Inga enjoyed herself immensely as we bounced along a road designated as "high clearance" in a Pontiac...

A side trip to Terlingua Ghost Town for dinner (no ghosts but plenty of cowboys and local life) before heading back to off-the-grid land, so called because there are no hooked up facilities; no water, no sewage, no electricity, no nothing. We talked late in to the night and then crashed out on our rock mattress to be sung to sleep by rampaging desert mice and coyotes yipping in the distance. I'll leave you with some images of Texas including one of Sadie who is perhaps one of the cutest terrier puppies I've ever met.

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